I have a soft spot for unconventional restaurant concepts that make you feel like you’re not in Singapore.
So far, nothing has come close to AIR, a restaurant, “circular campus” and cooking club in Dempsey Hill.
It’s a sustainability lifestyle and dining concept helmed by Matt Orlando, a former head chef at Noma who used to own one of the world’s most influential restaurants, the now-defunct Amass in Copenhagen; as well as The World’s Best Pastry Chef recipient Will Goldfarb (you may have also seen him on Netflix’s Chef Table).
They’ve joined forces with Ronald Akili, co-founder of Potato Head, so you know you’re in good hands here. No wonder I was getting major Bali vibes.
First of all, the 40,000-sq-ft complex is seriously stunning. Once you exit the carpark, simply follow the orange flag and you’ll be greeted by a a winding 100m-long wooden pathway — an urban oasis surrounded by lush greenery.
Feel free to also take a detour to the in-house Garden, where you’ll see fruits, vegetables, and herbs like lantern chillies, starfruit, tumeric, belimbing, and bananas that feature on AIR’s menu, hence the farm-to-table concept.
Afterwards, go past the spacious open Lawn where guests will soon be able to grab picnic baskets or order pastries from Le Matin, kick back, and bask in the shade.
The 45-seater Restaurant facing the lawn is where you’ll find the semi-outdoor main dining area, open kitchen, and bar.
Take time to admire the fixtures and furnishings, all designed exclusively using leftover materials sourced from the N*thing is Possible exhibition held at the National Design Centre in 2022.
If you’d prefer to dine in a more intimate setting, head on up to the second storey, which offers even better views.
This is also where you’ll get a glimpse into AIR’s Research Club, equipped with an open-concept pastry bar and fermentation lab. Plans for a Cooking School are also in the works, so keep an eye out for cooking classes and programmes in the near future!
As for the food, you can expect hearty, sustainably-sourced sharing plates in generous portions, so come hungry! The menu is largely plant-based and pescatarian-friendly, but I promise you won’t miss the meat.
For starters, the Young Peanut “Hummus’ (S$27) with burnt lemon skin dukkah (an Egyptian nut and spice blend) had me going back for seconds.
It was earthy, creamy, and tangy in all the right ways, enjoyed with young cabbage leaves harvested from the farm instead of the usual crackers or flatbread.
Speaking of carbs, sourdough fans must, must order the chewy and fluffy Fermented Cassava Bread (S$16), which comes with a side of whipped mushroom “XO” butter that you can lather on as much as you like.
I won’t judge if you dip your bread into the hummus (because it’s exactly what I kept doing).
You may have also seen rave reviews of the addictive Crispy Mushrooms (S$30) with Sarawak pepper emulsion, pickled chillies, and Thai basil — something I’ll definitely be ordering on my next visit.
As for mains, The Whole Coral Grouper for Two (S$64) is composed of an entire fish, but not in the way you think. There is a smoked rillette (a pâté-like dip) made using the head of the fish — light and zingy but with a great deal of flavour.
Even the fish bones are used; they are pressure cooked before being mixed with lemongrass and chillies, then pureed with three types of flour, forming a dough that gets made into crispy lavash crackers.
The other parts of the fish come together to form a delightfully buttery sauce, an accompaniment to the confit grouper filet, drizzled with charred green onion and black garlic vinaigrette. Subtle, but oh-so comforting.
However, the award for the most unique dish goes to the Re-Incarnated “Chocolate” (S$18), a dessert that fully encompasses what AIR is all about.
Think a chocolate dessert made without actual chocolate, but with ingredients commonly regarded as “waste”: cocoa husks; cascara (a fruit that is often discarded in the process of making coffee); and coconut flesh.
Sure enough, I was blown away by every single element, from the base of dense and fudgy brownies topped with banana skin caramel, to the whisky and cascara mousse, finished off with frozen “chocolate” shavings.
There’s even a dessert that incorporates papaya flesh, skin, and seeds (The Whole Papaya, S$16), as well as the Vanilla Bean and Coconut Ice Cream (S$37) that sounds simple enough, until you see what it’s served with (Kaluga caviar from Malaysia).
Can’t decide? We recommend going for the Chef’s Choice (S$92++ per person), consisting of five servings and dessert.
Unsurprisingly, even the drinks served here are inventive. If you’re in the mood for a tipple (for the full “pretending like you’re in Bali” experience), go for one of the cocktails, most of which are made with the unique spirits from Danish distillery Empirical Spirits.
Those who like their drinks fruity and refreshing will adore the AIR Mojito (S$22), with notes of green apple, roselle, and mint.
If you’re like me and prefer to sip on something strong and sour, the gimlet-inspired Gimme AIR (S$22) with coconut-washed Empirical Symphony 6 (a fragrant botanical spirit), and lychee, perfumed with kaffir lime, will do just the trick.
At the time of writing, you can only visit AIR for dinner, but plans to open the restaurant for breakfast, lunch, and everything in between are in the works, so stay tuned.
Ready to get a breath of fresh AIR? Reservations can be made here.
Restaurant AIR
Website
📍25B Dempsey Road, Singapore 249670
🕐 5.30pm–11pm (Wed to Sun), Closed on Mon & Tue
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Photos by Christabel Tan
I'm always feelin' either boozy or boujee ✨