The Market Grill & Wine 90 may be known for their lobster rolls — they were one of the first few establishments to bring them to Singapore, after all — but there’s so much more to the Telok Ayer restaurant than meets the eye.
Take a seat in the charming space inspired by old-style traditional butcheries and whimsical diners, as you browse through the recently revamped menu, which features a variety of mouthwatering French-inspired seafood-centric small plates.
There are five different tier pricing options ranging from S$10 to S$26, along with an entire section dedicated to lobster, where the Signature Lobster Roll (market price) stands, loud and proud.
You may be tempted to save the carbs for later, but the artisanal bread and butter served here is a must-order, not a mere afterthought.
Although I did enjoy the three-hour cold-smoked Smoked Butter (S$10), it was the savoury, and umami Seaweed Butter (S$10) that ultimately stole the show (and my heart).
Both house butters are accompanied by your choice of grilled bread: Sourdough, Nut Bread, or Brioche. We got to enjoy the latter, which was dense, subtly sweet, and almost cake-like in texture.
Got leftover bread and no more butter to spare? Let the unassuming Lobster Bisque (S$10) come to your rescue. Rich and delightfully creamy, with a touch of complexity thanks to the addition of Hennessy cognac, this ended up becoming my favourite small plate of the evening.
The teacup was also chock full of shellfish meat, which made every mouthful extra moreish.
Although I had my eye on the Char-Grilled Leek with Hazelnut Dressing from the S$15 section, we had the Baked Escargot (S$15), which arrives slathered in tomato fondue and garlic butter. It, unfortunately, didn’t impress, boasting only a mild earthy flavour reminiscent of mushrooms.
The classic Steamed Mussels (S$20) are served swimming in a tangy, well-balanced saffron cream perfect for mopping up with toasted sourdough. This is also the best time to order more bread and butter, solely for your dipping pleasure.
Beef cuts for the Minute Steak (S$25) vary according to the day, but in our case, it was flank served with mustard cream sauce and roasted broccolini atop silky and buttery mash.
As its name suggests, the steak is cooked for roughly one minute on each side, yielding a doneness that borders between rare and medium rare — just how I like it. It was chewy and flavourful, though not the best I’ve had.
We also got to try the newest addition to the lunch menu, the Papillote (S$15), flaky and tender fish sealed in parchment paper, which helps to retain moisture and flavour. Unfortunately, it is only available for takeaway, but it certainly makes for a delectable meal that can be enjoyed anywhere, be it in the office, at home, or in the park.
Before the meal comes to an end, be sure to save some room for desserts, which are not to be missed.
Those who enjoy smoky flavours will likely find themselves in the company of either the Smoked Valrhona Duck Chocolate Cake & Macadamia Ice Cream (S$10) or the Plums in Orange Armagnac & Vanilla Ice Cream (S$10), which taste faintly of rum and raisin.
Pistachio lovers will adore the Market Grill Tart (S$15), which is composed of several nutty pistachio elements in a buttery shell. You can look forward to a different flavour in a month or two, depending on the best produce available.
If you prefer to keep things classic, the profiteroles, or Choux Buns (S$10) sandwiched with vanilla ice cream and drizzled with warm chocolate sauce, as well as the Crème Brûlée infused with Fresh Vanilla Beans (S$10) will transport you to a Parisian bistro in no time at all.
Instead of the usual apple or mixed berries, the restaurant takes it up a notch with Rhubarb Crumble (S$10), which I couldn’t stop digging into.
You don’t see rhubarb being served often in Singapore, but this certainly satisfied my sour tooth in more ways than one. Think a well-balanced marriage of soft and tangy rhubarb filling and buttery crumble topping — so, so good.
Looking for a great time with friends over French-inspired sharing plates, fine wine, and decadent desserts?
Reservations can be made here.
The Market Grill & Wine 90
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???? 208 Telok Ayer St, Singapore 068642
???? 11.30am–2.30pm, 6pm–10pm (Mon to Sat), Closed on Sun
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Photos by Christabel Tan
I'm always feelin' either boozy or boujee ✨